(for a Yahoo! map of Hilo Click here or go to Yahoo maps and type in 96720, which is the zip for Hilo.)

Hilo is a small town with a population of about 45,000. Hilo is a safe town, where I frequently walk alone at night. Hilo is an amazingly beautiful town right on the bay with beaches, caves, rivers, and waterfalls within its limits. Hilo is not a tourist town, but if you can do without a few amenities you will be rewarded in Hilo. One of the reasons Hilo is not as popular as other areas on the Big Island for visitors is the rain. Hilo is the rainiest city in the United States; it easily gets 120 inches of rain a year. Most times it rains at night, but many days are also overcast or rainy, and sometimes it downright pours.

The rain is one of the reasons I like Hilo and the surrounding areas. It makes everything very, very green and lush. When you drive over the bridges leading out of town on Highway 19, or through the Panaewa stretch on Highway 11, or down Kalanianaole Ave. to the beaches, both sides of the roads are just covered, almost strangled with vegetation. There's banana trees, ohia trees, wild orchids and ginger, coconut trees, several variations of palm trees, african tulip trees, impatiens, and so much more vegetation that can look like an endless sea of green, dotted with blues, purples, yellows, reds, and oranges. I also like the rain because it affords me the chance to cuddle up in sweatpants on the couch and act lazy - but that's probably not desirable for a visitor.

Many visitors get their first taste of Hilo at the wharf when they dock on a cruise. Hilo has a Harbor big enough and deep enough to accommodate any cruise line. Up until just recently there has been no way for these visitors to get around and see anything - but recent developments have changed this. There are experimentations with a small electric car that seats four that visitors can rent. Hilo's business owners have also gotten together and formed a transportation service to pick up visitors and drop them off at Bayfront for some shopping. A sidewalk has also been built from the ocean area on Kanoelehua Ave. to the Prince Kuhio Plaza (a mall) for walking access.

Bayfront Shops
If you only have a day or a few hours to spend here, there are a few things that require little commitment, but offer much entertainment. Try shopping at Bayfront - the old-time area right across the street from Hilo Bay, where all the shops feature their original storefronts from many years ago. There is Hana Hou, a tiny shop featuring the work of authentic Big Island artists. You'll find things like dresses, jewelry, hairpins, and more - made out of Hawaiian koa wood or shells. You could visit the painting gallery, with paintings of the volcano and local scenes that will take your breath away. There is also a shop that sells authentic black pearls - and many more unique shops all within walking distance of each other. There are a few restaurants and a natural foods store. On Wednesdays and Saturdays there is a large farmers market featuring fruits, vegetables, and flowers from all over the island. You can get a papaya for a quarter, and a banana for less than that. Try a pineapple for 2 dollars, and a handful of anthuriums for three dollars. Directly across the street, there is a small flea market thriving. You can buy Hawaiian print purses and backpacks for a song, and clothing for less. There are shell wind chimes, crafts, jewelry, chair massages, and more.

Rainbow Falls

If you have access to a car you could drive up to Rainbow Falls, and Boiling Pots in under 10 minutes from Bayfront. If you are facing the water, take a left on Kamehameha Avenue, and then take another left on Waianuenue Ave. Drive up Waianuenue Ave, just above the stoplight at Komohana St. the road will fork, take the right fork, and then take a right at Rainbow Dr., which will take you to the parking lot of Rainbow Falls. A short walk will take you to a scenic view of the front of Rainbow Falls, so named because; after heavy rains the wide shaft of water pounding over the cliff to the ponding area some 70 feet below causes the spray to form rainbows all around. These falls are very pretty, and provide some good photo opportunities.

Another short walk up some rock steps will get you to the side of the Wailuku river above the falls, and provide a nice view of the river's length. Sometimes, local kids will go through the railing and walk down the steep path to the river itself and go swimming. I would advise strongly against this for you. In the last three years, at least three visitors and one local have had to be fished out of the water with varying injuries by the county helicopter after they tried to go over the falls.

Boiling pots

Boiling Pots, which is nice to look at, but not a must-see, is about 2 miles above Rainbow Falls. Head back the way you came on Rainbow Dr., then turn right up Waianuenue Ave., and turn right on Pe'e Pe'e Falls St., then park in the parking lot. A short walk will take you to a viewing platform that allows you to see the Wailuku River rushing at full speed over pool-like lava caves causing the water to look like it is boiling.

Kaumana Caves

If you have a little time - about an hour, you can head up to Kaumana caves. Kaumana caves is actually a large lava tube that was formed in 1881 when the lava flow advanced to within a few miles of Hilo. An interesting story about this particular flow is that Hilo residents were terrified the town was to be destroyed by the advancing lava. Princess Ruth, the Hawaiian princess living in Kona was compassionate enough to travel over the island and pray to the Hawaiian Goddess of fire: Pele. When she did this - the lava stopped, and the town was spared. This act horrified the Christian missionaries who were in Hilo, trying to teach the Hawaiians that Pele was not real, and that they must give up these backward beliefs and believe in only one God. Imagine their chagrin when her entreaties to this 'mythical' goddess worked, and the lava stopped advancing.

Anyway - the caves are just above the 5 mile marker on Kaumana Dr., You can continue up on Waianuenue Ave., then turn left on Akolea Rd., then turn left on Kaumana Dr. The caves will be on your left. They are on a blind curve, and there is only shoulder of the road parking - so be very careful here. You'll walk down the steepest rock staircase you've ever seen and suddenly, there will seemingly be a cave on both sides of you. At the floor of the caves, as far as the sunlight will reach, there is a soft colorful carpet of impatiens and ferns. What these two caves really are, is a large lava tube, probably 16 feet in diameter, caused by molten lava flowing at high speed towards the ocean. The top layer of lava would harden, and the middle lava would continue to flow in this circular tunnel, or tube. When the lava stopped, most of it had flowed out of the tube, but the tube remained.

If you continued up Kaumana Dr., it would turn into Saddle Rd., which is the road that crosses the mountain to connect Hilo and Waimea area. Saddle Rd. also leads to the Mauna Kea summit road, which goes up to the observatories.

Banyan drive, Suisan fish market, Queen Liliuokalani Gardens, hotels

Still in Hilo, you might also want to check out Banyan Drive area. You could go back down Kaumana Dr., till it turns into Waianuenue Ave., and turn fight back down Kamehameha Ave., which would take you back in front of the shops on Bayfront. Continue down Kamehameha till you go over the bridge, and turn left on Lihiwai St. Almost immediately on your left is the Suisan fish market and auction. If you get there around 7:30 or 8:00 A.M. stop there to see the open-air fish auction. It is a memorable sight: all the fisher people bring in their night's catch and display it for sale to the local restaurants and hotels. There's ahi (tuna), mahi mahi, snapper, and more. (Note - The Suisan Fish Market has closed down (Sept 1, 01) - sorry)

If you continue down Lihiwai St., and then turn right on Banyan Dr., you'll see the unique Liliuokalani Gardens on your left. Although they have a Hawaiian Queen's name, they are actually delicate Japanese gardens - which include pagodas, arched bridges, and a ceremonial teahouse. This area is perfect for strolling, and picture taking and experiencing the Japanese culture firsthand. Plus, the gardens are right near the water of Hilo Bay, and they provide another breathtaking view of Mauna Kea in the distance.

Also on Banyan Dr. are the major hotels in Hilo; the Hilo Hawaiian, the Hilo Bay, the Naniloa, and the Hilo Seaside. I stayed at the Hilo Hawaiian when I first moved to Hawaii for almost a month - it was clean, comfortable, right on the ocean (no beach), w/ a pool, and had the best loco moco's (a local dish of rice, a beef patty, one egg, and gravy) on the Big Island (my opinion). I would recommend the Hilo Hawaiian to any visitor. I paid $79 a night for a non-ocean view - but a non-resident will probably pay more.

Behind the hotels is Coconut Island, a small island a few hundred feet out in the bay connected to land by a footbridge. The island is covered with palm trees, and provides great 360-degree views of Hilo and the surrounding areas - plus both Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. The Hawaiian name for the island is Mokuola (healing island) because, according to legend, a swim in the waters around the island could heal human afflictions.

Also on Banyan Drive is the Banyan Bicycle Adventure shop (808 933 1228) which will rent you a bike to ride around Hilo and the surrounding area. besides bikes, I think they also have kayaks, boogie boards, and other ocean equipment. Across from all these hotels and shops is a row of huge Banyan trees - planted by many famous people like Babe Ruth and Amelia Earhart.

Farther down Banyan Dr. is a small bay, Reed‘s Bay- good for launching kayaks or small boats, and next to that is the ice ponds. The ice ponds is really just an extension of the bay with freshwater mixing in that makes the ponds ice cold. On the weekends you'll see lots of local kids jumping off the rocks and sometimes the roof of nearby buildings into the water (don't try this!).

Keaukaha

Banyan Dr. is a loop, and if you entered from Lihiwai, and are now passing ice ponds, you could take a left on Kalanianaole Ave. towards Keaukaha (an area name) to see the beach parks. You could drive down and check it out anytime, but if you go on a weekend you'll probably see there is no use in stopping anywhere the beach parks fill up quick on the weekends with local families looking to relax. If you go on a weekday - especially in the morning though, you'll probably have the place to yourself. I think any visitor to Hilo should try and work this drive into their schedule. If you don't have a lot of time, you could keep it down to 10 minutes. If you have some time - you could have a picnic or go snorkeling.

The first thing you'll see on your drive down Keaukaha is a mini industrial area - which includes the Hilo wharf. Go past all that and about one mile in on your left will be Hilo Tropical Gardens and Gallery. Stop here for ice cream - and if you are interested in the tropical foliage, take the gardens tour too. Farther down on your left are multiple beach parks - just keep watching for the signs, and the pullouts to park. This is one of the prettiest areas in Hilo - you will see some amazing water colors, ranging from emerald green, to dark blue. Most of the parks are bordered by black lava rock - which provides a picturesque border. The last beach park is Richardson's, and you definitely want to stop here. is a very nice black sand beach with excellent swimming and snorkeling. Do not go past Richardson's onto the unpaved road. That area is occupied by territorial locals and most people are not welcome (I don't go).

Well, this is a good start to Hilo, there is plenty more to do and see, and I will add information as I can. If you're like me - a last minute vacation planner - you'll get off the airplane and go straight to the tourist information booth and take all the advertising pamphlets off the rack that interest you. there are also decent publications, like Big Island Gold and 101 things to do on the Big Island that contain coupons and pictures that will give you great ideas on what to do, where to go, and where to eat.