(for a Yahoo! map of the Hamakua Coast Click here or go to Yahoo maps and type in the town of Honokaa, then zoom out a bit.)

The Hamakua Coast goes from Hilo to Waipio Valley on Hwy 19 - total driving time is about 50 minutes, if you don't stop and do anything - and could take a day if you do everything. There is a lot of stuff to see along the way - plus the most incredible ocean views you've ever seen. The land here used to be used for sugar, until the sugar industry died in Hawaii, striking the communities a near-fatal blow. You'll see a lot of old sugar cane, and an abandoned sugar mill - and if we're lucky you may see signs of new agricultural endeavors trying to fill the gap: like ginger, papaya, trees, and flowers. There is a free drive guide available for this coast by the Hawaii Island Economic Development Board - call 808-966-5416.

Onomea Scenic Route

Just above Hilo is the Onomea scenic route, you'll see a large blue sign, and you should take a right at the next road. This route is a four mile drive that eventually empties back out onto the Hwy. It crosses one lane bridges over rushing streams, and winds through a tropical rain forest that blocks out the light, and at times threatens to overrun the road. There is one bridge, that has a small pullout after it that you should stop at. If you look at where the water is coming from, you'll see it rushes out of a tunnel - well, the tunnel is really a lava tube emptied of its first tenant.

If you have the time, you should stop at the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens. The Botanical Gardens are over 40 acres of tropical plants and animals on prime ocean-front real estate. It costs $15.00 for adults and $5.00 for children and is definitely worth a look if you are at all interested in nature. There is ginger, bamboo, bromeliads, impatiens, banana trees, and many more plants framing waterfalls and a breathtaking bay plus parrots, flamingoes, and a few other birds.

Akaka Falls

After the gardens, the Onomea scenic Route continues on, taking you through a small residential area and past a snack shop and then empties out on Hwy 19 again. Continue heading north in the Hwy, and Akaka Falls will come up on the mauka (mountain) side of the road. You'll have to go through Honomu town - you can stop at the general store for groceries, or check out the small ice cream shop and art gallery. To reach the falls you'll tum on Akaka Falls Rd. (hwy 220) above these shops and drive up for about three miles. If the sky is clear, you'll be treated to a spectacular view of Mauna Kea towering in the distance - even better if its winter and it is covered with snow. There is a small parking lot and restrooms at the entrance to the walk to the falls - and mosttimes there will be a hawaiian craftsperson making or selling something here too. The walk to the falls is a 1 mile circular path - if you have time and can walk OK, follow the path to the fight - you'll see Kahuna Falls first and then walk up hill towards Akaka Falls. Akaka Falls is a staggering 440 foot waterfall that pours over a cliff across a gorge from where you are standing. The sights and sounds (and pictures) are amazing. If you don't have time, or don't want to walk the full mile, follow the path to the left and after you see Akaka Falls turn around and go back the way you came.

After Akaka you'll have to backtrack to get back to Hwy 19, continuing North, Kolekole beach park comes up on the mauka (mountain) side of the road almost immediately. This is not a must-see, but the park is extremely pretty, and a good place to stop for a picnic lunch. The park is actually the mouth of a gulch, bisected by a stream, entering the ocean. There is a sandy beach, but you shouldn't swim here because the ocean is very rough. - Oh, and bring your own water too.

Laupahoehoe

Continuing north on Hwy 19, your next stop could be .. Laupahoehoe beach park. There is no beach here, but there is a pier, a wide open field, good fishing, and restrooms. In 1946 a tsunami (tidal wave) swamped this bay and killed 20 students and 4 teachers; their names and ages are engraved on a monument here to their memory.

Honokaa and Waipio Valley

Continuing north on Hwy 19, next stop is Honokaa. Be sure and stop at Tex's Drive Inn off the Hwy for the best malasadas (sugary hot dough balls) in Hawaii. The drive through town is own Mamane St. (hwy 240) and will take you through a town that time forgot. there are no strip malls or minit stos here. This is a plantation town, that somehow still survives. There are a few good shopping places for visitors, especially if you like unique.

Honokaa is a gateway for that Valley of Kings: Waipio. If you continue north on Hwy 240 you will end up at the dead end of Waipio Valley overlook. You cannot continue on into Waipio Valley with your rental car unless it is a four wheel drive. You can look at the valley from above, or take a tour down to the valley floor by shuttle(808-775-7121) or wagon tour(808-775-9518). If you really want to explore this valley (it's worth it) you could hike in and camp, or rent a bed and breakfast nearby. Just be forewarned, the drive down is VERY scary.